Our Neighbourhood

A quirky bar that celebrates its city, Tai Lung Fung – the name of Cantonese opera troupe from the 1960s that is now slang for ostentatious – is filled with references to a Hong Kong that is fast disappearing. Located under the Wan Chai Film Archives, it attracts a casual clientele of young creatives in the mood for love, cheap drinks and deep conversations.

One of the oldest remaining Dai Pai Dong on the island. Styled with alfresco folding chairs and tables with over 60 years of history, Tak Yu is where locales flock to for some of the city’s best silk-stocking milk tea, corn beef sandwiches, peanut butter toasts and fried rice.

A Wan Chai classic, this decades old bakery originally called Happy Cake Shop closed in July 2022, but then much to Hong Kongers’ pleasure, reopened again in early 2023. Loved by many, Happy Bakery serves up some of the best egg tarts, polo buns and other baked delicacies. Worth the detour if you crave to sample the true taste of Hong Kong.

One of the few old-school cha chaan tengs left in our gentrifying city, Kam Fung Cafe has been serving basic Hong Kong fares since the 1950s. While regulars come to eat humble macaroni with ham and beef satay instant noodles, true devotees flock from far away to order Kam Fung’s famed pineapple bun, a butter-filled pastry that looks like – but is devoid of– pineapple.

Featured in Michelin’s guide to Hong Kong street food, this humble hole-in-the wall has built-up a faithful cohort of dedicated fans eager to gorge on Keung Kee’s traditional rendition of local breakfast dishes like mixed glutinous rice, pork & peanuts congee, and steamed shrimp cheong fun. Heavy on the stomach but light on the wallet!

Shanghainese food devotees flock to this elegant Michelin-starred restaurant to feast on succulent xiao long bao (soup dumplings) filled with sumptuous crabmeat, juicy braised ham hock and delectable abalone with pork belly. A favourite of Shanghainese expats, it’s the place to hear gossips about what’s hot on the Bund and deals cooking in Pudong.   

Craving Thai street food but can’t make it to Bangkok? Samsen’s casual atmosphere and authentic rendition of Thai classics such as crunchy wok-fried morning glory, juicy crab omelette and iconic wagyu beef boat noodles will instantly transport you to Ekkamai or Phra Khanong. Lace your juice with a shot of vodka for an extra oomph. Warning: be prepared to queue.

Unfamiliar with Asian desserts, many western travellers are in awe after tasting Yee Shun’ milky delicacies. Made using buffalo milk, this velvety delight feature two skins on top of the milk to deliver an ultra-smooth and very rich custard dish reminiscent of panna cotta. Typically served cold, although devotees swear by the hot ginger version!

Like his London’s namesake, Roganic transcends traditional fine cuisine by fusing bespoke ingredients (try Chef Simon Rogan’s Rose or branded caviar), local produce and impeccable culinary techniques to deliver novel dishes ranging from grilled salad with Westcombe cheese and truffle to duck with turnip in spiced red vinegar. Go for the full tasting menu featuring 15 dishes for a shockingly affordable HK$980!

For a quintessential Hong Kong experience, nothing beats eating on a boat. Set on a row of traditional sampan (water taxi), Shun Kee serves up a set menu of authentic seafood fares prepared Cantonese style in basic settings. Perfect for those who enjoy affordable seafood.

Bowrington Road Cooked Food Centre is a bustling cooked food centre adjacent to Morrison Hill Road on the edge of the Wan Chai neighbourhood. The quality of the food and the prices are better in the Cooked Food Centre than in neighbouring restaurants in the market, which is why this place is often full while the restaurants have empty tables.